Ellora
Caves Nestled in the crook of the Charanadari hill in Deccan is a series of
ancient temples and monasteries hewn out of the moutainside.
Situated on the ancient north- south trade route or the dakshinapatha, the tiny
mountain village of Verul - mutated today to Ellora -was a well- known stopover
for traders, priests and pilgrims who plied the route to the western ports.
Beginning sometime in the 7th century, when the Chalukyas (AD 553 - 753) ruled
the Deccan, these wayfarers decided to make their presence permanent.
And excavation started on a number of Buddhist chaityas and viharas. The place
found favour with missionaries of other faiths as well, and over the next five
centuries, Hindus and Jains also built their temples in the rocks there.
Unlike the caves at Ajanta, the Ellora caves were never 'lost'. Largely because
it lay on a more frequented route, Ellora remained in the public eye. in fact,
Kailasa Temple remained a practising shrine until the 19th century. Several
travellers to India including the 10th century Arab geographer Al Masudi and
Niccolao. Manucci in early 17th century mention the caves in their accounts.
The Caves
There
are 34 caves, of which 12 are Buddhist, 17 Hindu and 5 Jain. The caves all face
west, so are best seen in the afternoon. The Buddhist caves are to your far
right as you face the curve of the Charanadari Hill, then come the Hindu ones,
and finally, the Jain cave temples to the far left.
Although not too far removed from the Ajanta caves in terms of both space and
time, the chaityas and viharas of Ellora are architecturally and sculpturally
different. Compared to the Ajanta paintings and sculptures, the Ellora representations
are more earthly, drawing elements from the Vajrayana school of Buddhism which
was permeated with primitive ideas of magic and mysticism. So, the dwarapalas
that flank each doorway, the gigantic Boddhisattavas and their consorts have
a robust earthiness about them.
In fact, it is architectural skill rather than sculptural aesthetics that Ellora
is noted for. Buddhist Cave 12 or Tin Tala, for instance, has a rather plain
edifice with unadorned pillars and the sculptured panels are only on the inner
walls. But its historical value lies in the fact that human hands fashioned
a three- storeyed building from solid rock with such painstaking skill that
even the floors and the ceiling are smooth and levelled.
Tin Tala cave is a commodious monastery- cum-chapel, with cells enough to house
40 monks. It dates to the Rashtrakuta period in the middle of the 8th century
and, in fact, the third floor, which contains the most sculpted decoration,
was being excavated even as the Hindus were carving the magnificent Kailasa
Temple further along the rock face. The cruciform layout of the third storey
in Cave 12 may also be the inspiration behind the Dumar Lena (Cave 29) and the
Shiva cave at Elephanta.
How to Reach Ellora
By Air
Chikalthana airport at Aurangabad (30 kms) is the nearest airfield and is directly
linked to Mumbai, Delhi, Jaipur and Udaipur.
By Rail
Aurangabad, the closest railhead, is directly connected to Mumbai, Delhi, Agra,
and Bhopal. Alternatively you could take a bus or taxi to Jalgaon, a mainline
junction from where you get faster express trains to Mumbai and Delhi.
By Road
Aurangabad is connected to all major cities and towns by good roads. The Maharashtra
State Road Transport Corporation runs ordinary and luxury buses from here to
Mumbai (392 kms)
Destination Maharashtra - Ellora, West
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